We got an early start and made our way into the Westfjords, winding our way along the northern coast, and stopped at Heydalur in the mid-morning to kayak. Cold, clear water, a little breeze, and a sunny morning made for an exciting paddle surrounded by curious sea lions in the shallows of the fjord. After exploring the coastline we headed back to the farm at Heydalur and soaked in the geothermal hot springs.
Our next stop was on to Isafjordur, considered the “Capital of the North,” as it is the largest town in the region and sits just 30 nautical miles south of the Arctic Circle. We had a relaxing night of playing cards and working on our independent projects in the midnight sun, before an early night in preparation of our big day of hiking in the Hornstrandir Reserve.
The Hornstrandir Reserve is considered the “last true wilderness of Europe” and is a vacation destination for the most adventurous of Icelanders in addition to international trekkers. We began the day with an hour-long boat ride where we spotted Minke whales and seabirds. We motored from the calm, protected waters of Isafjordur out to Hesteyri, the abandoned village that served as the jumping-off point for our adventure.
We hiked twelve kilometers in brilliant sunshine with a cool breeze coming off of the residual snowmelt scattered across the mountain. Then, we trekked up into the mountains past glacial lagoons, rushing waterfalls, 200-year-old cairns, through fields of wildflowers and knee-deep Icelandic moss, before stopping to eat on a “couch with a view” recommended by our guide.
It might have been the most beautiful picnic spot we’ve ever seen! Over lunch, our guide, Kristin, regaled us with stories of polar bears that have washed up on the the melted icebergs floating from Greenland all the way to the beaches below. We also heard stories of her grandmother’s childhood in the reserve before its abandonment, and facts about how the landscape we were exploring was created by receding glaciers in the last Ice Age. Needless to say, we learned a lot!
After lunch we hiked down into the valley below and followed the creek bed to the ocean, where we were joined by the 17th member of our group, a very curious Arctic Fox! Our new friend followed us for the remainder of our mile-long stroll down the beach to the next “town,” taking time to hunt for sea gulls and crack clams along the way. The Arctic Fox thrives in this reserve and because it is protected, is extremely comfortable around humans.
We’re off tomorrow for a more relaxed day including a historic walking tour of town where we will learn about the folklore and legends on this peninsula. Everyone’s also looking forward to a visit to the Arctic Fox Preservation Center too!
More to come soon!
– Anna & Matt
